Easy Access Step Through bathtub to shower conversion kit can provide a
safer and affordable alternative to traditional bathtubs.
Treating fall injuries is very costly. In 2015, costs for falls to Medicare alone totaled over $31 billion. Because the U.S. population is aging, both the number of falls and the costs to treat fall injuries are likely to rise.
- Each year, millions of people 65 and older are treated in emergency departments as a result of falls.
- Over 800,000 patients a year are hospitalized as a result of a fall injuries related to entering/exiting bathtubs, most incessantly as a result of a broken hip or head injury.
Each Easy Access Step Through Bathtub to shower conversion kit will include the Step Through part, a copy of these instructions, a cutting template, a slip resistant pad and an epoxy adhesive. Conversion covers are available in small and medium only and are not included with conversion kit. If you are in need of conversion cover please message seller for price.
Recommended Tools & Materials List:
- Tape Measure
- 2 x 4’s
- Recommended Adhesive
- Card Paper
- Caulking Gun
- Denatured Alcohol
- Drill and Drill Bits
- Drop Cloths
- Dust Mask
- Dust Pan and Brush
- Ear Protectors
- Extension Cord
- Safety Glasses
- Jig Saw with 2” Blades
- Masking Tape
- Paper Towels
- De-burring Tool
- Saws-all with Metal Blades
- Screw Driver
- Assorted Screws
- Side Grinder with 4” Diamond Blade
- Utility Knife
- Sharpie ® Marker
- White Silicone
Dimensions Guide for Order Placement:
Installation instructions to convert your tub into a shower with our Easy Access Step Through Kit:
Step 1: Measure the rail to determine which insert to use. (Image A)
Step 2: Check the existing tub for chips, cracks or any other deformities and inform the customer if there are any.
Step 3: Mark the insert location by finding the center point of the tub and measuring back, half the distance of the insert itself. Place the insert template over the tub and trace on both sides using a Sharpie® marker. Flip template over and trace on the inside of the tub. (Image B)
Step 4: Cover the drain by either taping over open drains or closing the push and pull ones.
Step 5: Cut entry points on the top corners. (Image C)
Tip: On fiberglass or steel tubs, cut with a saws-all. On cast iron tubs, use a side grinder with a diamond blade. Cutting a cast iron tub is more difficult because you must use the side grinder with the attached shop vac. You also have to make several passes with the side grinder to completely cut through the tub.
Step 6: Cut on the vertical lines that will connect to the bottom cuts.
Tip: A side grinder may come in handy for making a starter cut where the side and bottom cuts meet. You’ll be able to come back and clean up the corners once the tub piece is removed.
Step 7: Cut out the side and bottom markings on both sides of the tub. Leave the top markings for the last cut.
Step 8: Cut the top two sides of the tub. (Image D)
Step 9: Start by cutting at probably the most top corners. Continue downward until you reach the bottom corner. Continue cutting out the panel along the bottom and other side.
Tip: A side grinder may come in handy to make starter cuts where the side and bottom cuts meet
Step 10: Clean up any debris with the dust pan and broom and the vacuum.
Step 11: Place a piece of cardboard onto the ends of the tub and start tracing the profile of the tub. Place the appropriate marking on the tracing so you know which side was traced. Repeat this step for the opposite side. (Image E)
Step 12: Cut out the cardboard templates with scissors. Needless to say to cut both the left and right sides.
Step 13: Cut support blocks out of 2 x 4 studs. Measure the width of the opening on the left and right sides. The wood blocks will help support the apron walls and provide a good area for the adhesive to settle. (Image F)
Tip: You should all the time be prepared with 2×4 studs, pieces of 1/2” and ¾” plywood and various thicknesses of scrap acrylic. Until you cut the tub out, you’ll not know how much scrap wood and acrylic it is important to support the bottom of the step through insert.
Step 14: Hold a 2 x 4 halfway up the opening and trace lines on both sides of the opening onto the 2 x 4 marking the width. Mark the 2 x 4 so you know if it is the left or right side. Do the same for the opposite side, then cut the wood according to the markings.
Step 15: Even as holding the 2 x 4 in place halfway up the side of the cut out, place one dot with your Sharpie® on the bathtub about ¾” from the top of the wood block and another dot about ¾” from the bottom of the wood block. Do this on both the inside and outside of the apron on both sides. These dots will mark the location of screw placement that will hold the wood blocks in place. (Image G)
Step 16: Remove the blocks and drill 1/8” holes in the bathtub where you placed the screw marks. (Image H)
Step 17: Place the wood blocks back into place and drive a screw through the drilled holes into the wood block. You should have four screws per block.
Step 18: Install the support for the bottom of the insert. Stack 2 x 4 stud blocks from the floor to the bottom of the walk-through insert. (Image I)
Step 19: Make sure floor is dust-free. If there is a brace, you may need to cut the 2 x 4 into two pieces to avoid it.
Step 20: For wood floors, screw the bottom piece into the floor. For other floors, place a good amount of adhesive onto the floor and place the 2 x 4 on top of the adhesive. Press firmly into place.
Step 21: Apply adhesive on top of the 2 x 4 inside the tub. Place the next 2 x 4 on top of the already inserted 2 x 4 and press firmly into place. Continue this process until you have built the support up high enough to contact the bottom of the walk-through insert and trace.
Tip: Because the inside plane of the bathtub is sloped, you must put the slanted part of the walk-through insert on the inside of the tub.
Step 22: Place your cut-out patterns on the respective sides of the walk-through insert.
Step 23: Place the pattern on the side of the walk-through insert about 15/16” above the bottom of the insert and trace. Repeat for other side using that side’s template. (Image J)
Step 24: Using a straight edge, extend down your pattern side lines to the bottom edge in order to line up the respective traced patterns on each end of the insert. Then connect both side markings across the bottom. This will give you a straight line to follow when cutting the bottom. (Image K)
Step 25: Make sure your jigsaw has a felt protector, and insert a short blade.
Tip: The length of the blade stroke when fully extended should not exceed 1½” otherwise it’ll cut through the top side of the insert.
Step 26: Start cutting along the traced lines. Once you have cut along the bottom and both sides, the cut section will come out as one piece. (Image L)
Step 27: Use your deburring tool to clean up all of the edges and then test fit the insert over the cut out area of the bathtub. Stand on the insert with clean shoes. If it flexes or bows down with your weight, then You’ll be able to either cut higher on the sides of the insert or add more wood to the support blocks.
Step 28: After proper fit is accomplished, take off the insert. Add a liberal amount of adhesive to the wood blocks on each side and on top of the stack of wood resting on the floor. Do not apply adhesive directly to the insert at this time. Push the insert into place.
Step 29: Clean all the corners with denatured alcohol. Make sure the insert is fully compressed. Cover the top of the insert with a paper towel and step on it. This prevents any shavings from damaging the surface of the insert.
Step 30: Seal the entire insert from one end to the other. Place a good bead along the upper edges and proceed down the sides. Clean up your beads with a caulk finishing tool. Use a mirror to help apply adhesive to the bottom of the insert.
Step 31: Apply the slip-resistant step pad, if required.
Step 32: Wipe down the step with denatured alcohol. Center the pad on the step and make a couple of small marks to indicate position. Use a tape measure to double check that it’s centered.
Step 33: Peel off the backing from the pad and press into place, using your guide marks for position. Clean up any exposed marks using denatured alcohol.
Step 34: Vacuum any debris and clean up the area. Do not use insert for 24 hours from completion.
Free shipping is restricted to the Continental United States
only. Customer in Alaska, Hawaii, International and Puerto
Rico please contact seller for shipping cost before you
purchase. No APO/FPO and PO Box addresses.